Krishna went and stood on a small hill that is known as Govardhan Hill. When he came down, he was not the boy he used to be. He went up the hill as a playful village boy and came down with a different gravity about himself. People looked at him in shock.

They knew something phenomenal had happened. When they looked at him, he still looked back at them smiling, but there was no love in his eyes – there was vision.

He saw things that they could not even imagine.

As explained by Sadhguru – What is Krishna – Sadhana? (Isha Website)

“Ritchie, if you’re a spiritual man then you have to go to the holy cities of Matura and Vrindavan!” came the command from my host in Agra, Ram. I had been already eight days in Agra and the opportunity to teach at a local school there was not forthcoming. I was becoming restless and was beginning to question my motivation as to why I was even still in India. I needed inspiration. I needed clarity. I needed a vision.

With a gentle push from Ram, who arranged for my travel to Vrindavan, I packed a few clothes and took my camera with me. He reminded me as to why these places were of special significance to an Indian pilgrim.

“Do you know anything about Krishna and Radha?”

I shook my head.

“These are the places where Lord Krishna grew up as a boy and the legends about his life are from there. Go there and visit the many magnificent holy temples there. Observe the devotees and just sit and spend time in the ambience,” was Ram’s clear and much needed advice.

I set off. I felt alone and vulnerable as the cab sped off from my safe abode and into the throngs of India and her vibrant pulse.

Without saying a word, he began eating his own meal. I pulled out a fistful of Rupees and offered this to him. He motioned me to put it back where it came from without even looking at me. I was getting a lesson in karma yoga right here, I thought. Make sure to pass this on!

My first experience of Vrindavan

The first thing I was greeted with as I made my way out of the taxi and into the throng of activity was the electricity in the air. This place was definitely operating on another energy. (I would later tap into this when I spent time at the Iskon temple with the Hare Krishna devotees). Overwhelmed and feeling the need to come to grips with my new surroundings, I decided to go into a local restaurant that was already pulsing. Trying to make sense of the menu, I asked someone in line about what I should order and how much should I pay. He waved me away to the table. Not sure if this was a rebuke or something else, I sat down and tried to gather my thoughts.

He then came over with a full plate of food and sat it down in front of me. Without saying a word, he began eating his own meal. I pulled out a fistful of Rupees and offered this to him. He motioned me to put it back where it came from without even looking at me. I was getting a lesson in karma yoga right here, I thought. Make sure to pass this on!

I walked on wondering if I should book accommodation through the help of an app, or keep sticking to my tried and true method of being led by intuition. I applied the latter, and saw a temple and a sign for an Ashram. I walked through the gates and met two men who were sitting in plastic chairs, sheltering from the midday sun.

“Ah, good afternoon gentlemen. Will it be possible to stay here at the Ashram,” I asked more like a little boy asking for permission, than a guest in need. Both could only communicate in Hindi, but in no time, I ascertained that it would cost 500 Rupees and that they indeed had a room available. I was shown into a modest living quarters. I packed out my bags and laid down on the bed. I closed my eyes and focused on calming my breath. Soon I would go out amongst the throngs of worshippers and devotees and become acquainted to why this place means so much, to so many.

These images were taken early morning at the mist was thick on the Yamuna river. It was both surreal and quiet at this time. A great opportunity to capture people in this mystical light.

The roads were simply bursting with devotees. Most were walking barefoot, some were prostrating with the help of crude styrofoam for protection from the road. I watched in awe of this one couple. He prostrated with a brass cup filled with offerings in front. He prostrated directly on the asphalt. His wife moved the cup forward for him so that his flow was uninterrupted. Then she did her own prostrations immediately afterwards, before attending to her husband again. It was dumbstruck by this act of devotion .

These shots illustrate my connection to the water rituals done here in Vrindavan. I have always felt the need to take part, or at least get wet. But here it was enough to just observe the people and their devotion to the river and their rituals.

After a few days I began to feel the effects of the hustle and bustle of this pilgrimage sight. I felt both privileged to be at this holy place of worship, yet at the same time, a lot of the devotees were part of either their own family, friends or religious sects. I felt alone.

Then three things happened to change that. I was introduced to a 101 year old guru. I became an uncle to three beautiful Indian kids at the Ashram, and I met a real holy person, or at least, a holy person in the guise of a normal Indian devotee.

The 101 year old guru:

I was led into a dark alley.

“Come this way, my guide was telling me, did you bring something for Guru ji?”

I replied that I had some Rupees with me. We stood out the front of a big, but well-worn temple that was several stories in height.

“Take off your shoes! Come here! Wash your hands! Wash your feet! Use this towel to dry yourself! Walk once around here from this direction”, came the quick fire commands from my guide.

I was then led up a stairway and through some large dilapidated rooms. I was told how this building housed many hundreds of other holy men who received bedding and food from the beloved Guru ji.

My guide rang to his wife who was already inside the room with the Guru.

“He will now see you! Chalo! (Let’s go!)

I walked in to a room that was filled with thousands of boxes of Prasad, or sweets used as an offering to both gods and devotees. I sat down on the hard floor as two women attended to an elderly man lying in bed. Here was the holy Guru ji. One of the women was holding a temperature thermometer whilst the other talked on the phone. I don’t speak Hindi, but from a scattering of English words, I could make out that there were medical tips coming being explained by a doctor. Guru ji was huge in stature and looked to be well fed. I thought to myself how he must have been quite a specimen in his youth. Suddenly the phone conversation stopped and the Guru was now propped up by pillows on his bed. Guru ji motioned for his assistent to fetch Prasad to all of us in the room. We were given a Ladoo and soon there was fresh milk to wash it down with. The Guru had a huge Goshala, (place of nurturing and protection for cows), that I had visited before I had come. I don’t drink milk and cannot remember the last time I had tasted unpasteurized milk. What to do? Refuse it so that my stomach avoids the bacteria, and I don’t get diarrhea and risk the consequences of turning down Guru ji’s kind offer …. ?

I looked around the room and everyone was drinking from their glasses. I looked once more at the Guru. He motioned for me to drink up. I began slowly sipping the contents of my glass. Then after a little bit of banter with his devotees, I was called up to receive blessings from The Great Man. To be honest, I felt like I was back at primary school being called up by the Principal. I was motioned to stand up and bow down. In fact, I received so many quick fire instructions that I had to remember to breathe up in all these imposed formalities.

I placed a thousand rupees on a pillow beside him, prostrated myself and touched his feet. It was the first time I had performed a devotional ritual to an Indian Guru before. Guru ji looked a little glassy eyed and fever affected. It was explained to him that I was from Australia and that I was a spiritual seeker, or Yogi, was the word they used. He smiled. Spoke to them about something and I was told to go back and sit down from where I had come again.

And that was that. No sparks flew out from his hand. No looking deep into my eyes and a deep seated knowing taking place. It was just an ordinary man for me who had a big following, and a room full of devotees waiting to get their blessing. When we left, a crowd full of people were waiting to see him and were now being led in by his assistent.

I was then lead downstairs and shown the symbols of Krishna, Radha and Hanuman before joining in some Kirtan where we sang several Krishna songs and I played along with symbols. Afterwards we went back upstairs to eat food provided by the Ashram. Then there was a power cut and the lights went out. We sat there under the light of our mobile phones eating on the floor in this huge hallway. As we finished up our food and walked back out into the dark alleyway, I could hear the sounds of Kirtan (devotional music) coming from several different Ashrams. The old buildings, narrow streets, all lit by a full moon along with the hum of traditional Indian instruments combined with the cries of devotional singing made me wonder if this was the blessing that old Guru ji wanted me to have.

To remember that God was omnipresent.

The Joy of Children

“One more game of lock and key!” came the cries from my three new friends who were now staying within the compounds of the Ashram. Me being me, I gave it full throttle as we ran through bushes, jumped over chairs and walls. This put the baboons in a frenzy and the monks in the Ashram looked on in amusement. I was sweating buckets and needed a breather. This was way more tiring than battling the crowds of devotees in Indian traffic.

Guys! Let’s take a break. I need to just lie down for a second.

I opened my room and had just closed my eyes when I heard gentle knock at the door.

Uncle?

I came out to investigate. Little Manish was holding my water bottle.

“Don’t forget this, he explained, the monkey’s will steal it.”

I patted him on the head before I laid down again. Knock, knock knock ….

Yeah?! I yelled out.

“Uncle”? came the soft tone from in front of my door. This time it was Aashvi.

I opened and there was those brown puppy dog eyes of hers.

Mummy wants you to eat this. (It was an Indian desert).

Thank you sweetie, I said as I pattered her head and then went back to my bed. I put the sweet on the window sill of my room before lying down once again ….

Knock, knock knock ….

Uncle, do you want to eat lunch?

What I love about kids is that they live nearly all the time in the here and now. These three kids were so well mannered and courteous and always addressed me with respect calling me Uncle. We ate our meals together, fed the monkey’s and I taught them a Zombie game which is just a modified version of catch me if you can, where if you got caught, you also became a Zombie and had to walk funny and make gurgling noises. I think the monks found this perturbing. They must have wondered:

Was this middle aged foreigner genuinely invested in these games?

The short answer is that by being in the moment with these children, I was learning to discipline my head and my heart to becoming open again. Like I mentioned before, India is an plethora of so many impulses, that you can feel overwhelmed and struggle to get your bearings. I was getting a hard time by the rickshaw drivers who never gave me a fair price, constantly being asked for money by countless people, who also needed to eat, attacked by baboons who had stolen my food and one had jumped up on my back and tried to make off with my sun glasses.

Then I was slapped hard three times in the back of the neck by a Sadhu when I refused to give him cash.

By hanging with these kids, it reminded me that there are Humans who want nothing more than to be in your company. Through their joy, I connected back to my essence, and not overwhelmed by my pangs of loneliness.

When we said our good-byes it was tough, as I could see that they too had enjoyed the connection, but were willing to openly show their sadness of my departure. These three little spirits had given me something that I was searching for, a portal back to myself, through actions coming from the heart.

My Meeting With Vasudev

Walking back from the ghats, I decided to drop by my favorite temple ( to do meditation. Sitting cross legged on the lawn by the tall pillars in front of the Temple, I quickly went into a deep relaxation even though a steady stream of people walked past me. Then, after 40 minutes or so, it got quiet. When I opened my eyes, I was surrounded by at least 30 odd Baboon’s, who are not to be 100% trusted. Especially when YOU are the one who is outnumbered.

I put on my sandals and with careful and deliberate steps, made my way out. Having been up since dawn, I was now walking back to the Ashram in the opposite direction to the devotees who were just beginning their day. Then all of a sudden, I was passed by a bare foot man shouting the all familiar: Radhe! Radhe! He motioned with his hands up to the heavens and it was like sparks were shooting out of his eyes. There was such a peace and compassion to this man that I was taken aback and I decided immediately to keep pace with him. Speaking only in Hindi, he gesticulated, pointed to the heavens and smiles at me so lovingly that I felt a strong pull from his energy that invigorated me to the core.

He took out a card from his pocket that had his name, date of birth and social security number. Vasudev Singh. 1978. He pointed down to my feet and then pointed to his. I took this as a question to why, I too was not walking barefoot? I laughed and motioned that he was stronger than me as we continued our way along the road. He sang devotional songs with a beautiful voice as he walked briskly and kept a continual eye contact with me. By gesticulating with my hands, I asked him if he was hungry, with the intention that I would buy us both breakfast. He motioned back that he was ok. He then led me down several new streets for me, until we soon arrived at the back entrance of a huge Ashram. This was the Iskon temple in Vrindavan, where Swami Abhay Charanaravinda Bhaktivedanta, the founder of the Hare Krishna movement, had both founded, built and spent his last days here. Hare Krishna devotee’s from around the world know this place as their holy pilgrimage site.

Vasudev motioned for me to go into the huge food hall that was located by the temple. He then went off and pray whilst I entered the food hall to the sound of the Hare Krishna mantra and clanging of tin plates and incessant chatter ringing in the hall. The food hall was huge and could easily hold up to a thousand people. Wonderful wholesome food was served up and I ate amongst a throng of people who, like me, were there for the food, and not because they were Hare Krishna devotees.

Coming out of the food hall, Vasudev was there ready to take me into the beautiful white marble temple where the sounds of Kirtan were already in full flow:

After 20 minutes of joining in the Kirtan, Vasudev and I agreed to leave the temple and continued our journey onward. I felt myself beginning for the first time to let my guard down as he was protecting me from all the attacks that were otherwise thrown my way on the streets of Vrindavan. I tried to buy him tea, but he refused. I asked him if he wanted lunch, again he refused. Would he like a mango lassie? He shook his head smiling.

This guy didn’t want anything from me. He was happy and content with his devotion. In my whole life, there have been very few individuals who I have met displaying this bliss.

As we walked out of our final temple together, the midday sun was blazing and my bald head was getting roasted. I needed respite and to seek shade. I didn’t want to say goodbye to Vasudev, but I had to let him continue on his journey. I looked into his honey colored eyes and found myself bowing down to touch his feet, just like I’d done for Guru ji. Vasudev was immediately uncomfortable with this display of affection from me, but I personally felt it fitting to pay homage to a Human Being who demonstrating how to find joy from within.

I may never meet the likes of a Vasudev again, but I hope these three portraits give you an idea of the pure goodness that he possessed. By far, his example has been one that will be forever remembered by me when I reflect back on the spiritual sojourn.

Hanging out with the Hare Krishna’s

I had torn myself away from the Ashram and the joy’s of my time with the children there. I felt there was something at the ISKON temple calling me back that I needed to find out about. I packed my bags and said heartfelt goodbyes to both the kids, families and other monks before making my way to the ISKON temple. Immediately I felt that same peaceful feeling I’d experienced earlier with Vasudev. The cleanliness of the place mixed in with the sounds of music and joyful chanting, had a calming effect. I saw that their program began at 04:10!

After eating a wonderful meal at the restaurant there, I went to bed early to prepare myself for a full day of Bhakti yoga practice.

Waking up at 3 am wasn’t an issue. I had been getting up early to catch the sunrises, so a couple of hours earlier wasn’t painful. I made my way to the temple where the early morning darkness and chill in the air, made the carpeted floors a welcome mat for my cold feet. Already, devotees were strewn throughout the temple chanting. It was more like whispers as their right hands kept count of their progress by following the beads on their mala. Krishna consciousness is carried out by Hare Krishna devotees whereby members sing the Hare Krishna mantra in public, do preaching and sell spiritual books to educate the public. Hare Krishna’s believe that everyone naturally has empathy toward their fellow human beings and all living entities. Their actions are therefore focused on transforming society into one of joy (celebration) and coming away from conflict on both a personal and community level. Krishna devotees also believe that everyone with food in the belly, is able to make better decisions.

As the rituals began and everyone started singing the morning prayer, it reminded me of how all religious institutions use song as a means to open a followers heart. I looked around the room and saw complete devotion. As some point, I had to stop observing people as an outsider with curiousness, and give in and apply myself as well to the practice. Just observing everyone over many hours will quickly lead to boredom. I had no choice but to follow along, and give full attention. What I wasn’t ready for was that after the initial rituals, we then sat down cross legged, and with the help of our mala, we were to chant the Hare Krishna mantra 16 x 108 times in an audible voice. At this point, the women moved to the back of the temple whilst us men stayed at the front. The buzz coming from the room of all the murmuring vibrations was captivating. I hadn’t shared such a strong collective energy since my days at the Ashram in Rishikesh. This was by far a more powerful. The chanting took just over an hour and I found that this gave calmness and clarity. Afterwards, devotees were instructed to follow the texts written in Sanskrit and translated to English. Here, expert theologians discussed the meanings and practice of these texts where questions or reflections were welcome. At 9am, we made our way to the food hall for breakfast. Then from 10am – 1pm there were further rituals and teachings. A break between 1pm and 3pm before there was full Bhakti singing in the temple til 6pm. I really enjoyed these sessions and would try and sit as close to the musicians as possible, clapping my hands and singing with as much sincerity as I could muster.

This went on over three days.

It was both relaxing and intense. I was glad that I had done this practice as I desperately needed to have a focus. I had always been a little skeptical of Hare Krishnas and their methods, but I felt welcomed and safe in their presence. There was definitely something powerful when one committed oneself to doing the rounds of chanting. I experienced a deeper focus, heightened concentration and soothing calmness after doing this. I wish to keep applying these methods into my own practice.

As for the serenity in the ISKON temple. It was definitely a place that was open and accepting for anyone just wanting to sit for themselves. The sense of peace there was undeniable and I thoroughly recommend anyone traveling to Vrindavan to check out the place for themselves.

Hare Krishna, Hare Krishna

Krishna, Krishna

Hare, Hare

Hare Ram, Hare Ram

Ram, Ram

Hare, Hare

Ritchie February 2023

Vrindavan, India